return to Dining > Restaurant Reviews

Aug 2011  |  By Julie Chernoff  |  Comments

Wilde & Greene

After many months of construction, the wrapping is off and Wilde & Greene is open for business as a new generation of food court at Westfield Shopping Town/Old Orchard.

The “word on the street” has been less than glowing.

But don’t believe everything you read on Yelp, if you do read that kind of thing. Yes, Wilde & Greene has a way to go. There are definitely kinks in the system. But there’s a lot that’s right.

First of all, W & G prides itself on providing healthier choices than your standard food court. There are many organic and sustainable choices, a real dearth of fried food, and lots of fresh veggies, lean meats and fish available. That’s all good.

A tremendous effort has been made to provide a level of service that you won’t see at other food courts. As you enter one of the two doors into the “restaurant,” you’re handed a helpful map of the space to help you navigate the space, along with a “shopping card” for each person to charge whatever suits their fancy. I like paying on the way out rather than hauling out my wallet at each stop; just make sure you keep track of where you put the card.

A helpful server accompanies visitors and helps them reserve a table while explaining the 10%, pre-tax, across-the-board service charge, while another runs over with water glasses and silverware. Water is constantly refilled, and tables are bussed instantly. I don’t have a problem with service charge, because we received excellent service; rumor had it that the charge was 20%. That is currently not the case.

The space itself is inviting, with tons of seating and natural light, and seating is plentiful, with each area getting it’s own moniker (Terrace, Warehouse, Picnic, Porch, etc.).

The stations – and there are many – are spread throughout the length of the space, and it’s more than a bit confusing. Looking for soup? We were, but couldn’t find it on the map. Turns out it’s lodged with the sandwiches.  

And timing can be a bit of an issue. If you’re dining with a group, it’s likely that everyone will return to the table at different times, given the varying waits at different stations and the time involved in preparation. With the exception of the salad station and bakery, everything is prepared to order.

And the food? It’s a bit of a mixed bag, at least at this point. We enjoyed the Far East section with made-to-order stir-fries and curries (the Singapore Chicken Curry was especially tasty, as was the Citrus Teriyaki stir-fry option) with loads of fresh veggies and chopped cilantro. The Sushi & Raw Bar was hopping, pumping out many plump maki rolls. Also, you won’t want to miss the Kale Salad (yes, kale!) at the otherwise standard salad table; by all means skip the gummy Asian noodle salad.

The pizzeria offered a number of options. I wouldn’t choose the Tuscan Herb Chicken Pizza again, although the crust was decent; I was not a fan of the large slabs of dry chicken breast on top. Other choices walking by looked far more appetizing.

The Rosti station was interesting, offering sizzling sauté pans filled with the huge shredded potato pancakes. They need work on getting them crusty enough, or else they just become a giant hash brown. You could supplement your rosti with smoked salmon, bratwurst or other sausages… very Teutonic!

Gelato was quite yummy, although the freezer was about 10 degrees colder than it should have been. A fresh batch of cantaloupe gelato appeared while I was ordering and the texture was much superior to the too-cold chocolate gelato we sampled.

Other desserts can be found at the Crepes & Waffles, Bakery or Pastry sections. Or maybe you’d enjoy a fresh smoothie at the Fruit Tree, or an espresso and a macaroon at the Café Bar? There’s no shortage of options.

If the whole food court scene is not your bag, check out the Rooftop Bar upstairs, open only at dinner, and if the weather is good. There you’ll find tapas, salads, sandwiches and desserts along with a full bar. The vibe is pretty groovy, but bring sunscreen if the sun is still out.

I’ll be interested to see how this all pans out. Will there be crowds 7 days a week? Will anyone shop in the well-appointed Natural Market, open from 7:30 to midnight? Will the rooftop bar become a hangout, or will it be a bust? We’d love to hear what you think!

Two-and-a-half out of five stars

Wilde & Greene
4999 Old Orchard Center
Skokie
847-869-0219
www.wildeandgreene.com

Photo credit: Cindy Kurman, Kurman Communications